"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
05/26/2018 at 23:34 • Filed to: None
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"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
05/26/2018 at 23:34 • Filed to: None | 0
| 10 |
As I’ve posted before, I’m considering disconnecting the anti-roll bars on the Volvo. However, to remove the front sway bar, you have to drop the front subframe. I want’d to ask y’all if I’d be good just removing the endlinks, or if that’d let the roll bar move/roll around and hit stuff.
I’ve decided I’m not going to spend money to try to soften up the ride, but if I’ll be good just removing the front endlinks (I’d be removing the rear bar completely) than I’ll just do that. Because the rides not bad enough for me to want to spend a good chunk of money to improve it and I certainly don’t wanna go through the trouble of dropping the subframe, but if disconnecting the roll bars makes it a little better over bad pavement, I think it’d be worth it. Because the suspension is just too stiff for the type of car it is. If it was a Miata or Integra, it’d be fine. But for a Volvo it’s a little silly.
I know off roaders just disconnect them, but I didn’t know if for a street car it’d cause problems, since your turning faster and such.
atfsgeoff
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/26/2018 at 23:39 |
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If you’re really intent on just removing it, use an angle grinder to cut it into sections and remove it that way.
I don’t think you’ll like just how wallowy the car will be in turns after disconnecting it, though.
tromoly
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/26/2018 at 23:45 |
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Use baling wire to hold the swaybar out of the way, very quick to do and easy to undo if you don’t like it disconnected.
Urambo Tauro
> tromoly
05/26/2018 at 23:51 |
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This.
Or zipties.
Aremmes
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/26/2018 at 23:51 |
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Some Miata owners disconnect just one endlink. This has the same effect of disabling the sway bar while avoiding it flopping around uncontrollably. Plus it’s less work.
dogisbadob
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/26/2018 at 23:53 |
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My sway bar links both popped off, so the sway bar was disconnected. I don’t even know how long it was like that. The car drove much better after installing new ones.
ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/26/2018 at 23:54 |
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Just disconnect remove one end link and see how you like it. This will disable the functionality while the remaining end link will hold the sway bar in place and keep it from causing problems.
Sovande
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/26/2018 at 23:58 |
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This is a ridiculous solution to a $300 problem. You need shocks and struts. Your idea is going to turn to your car, which currently rides too stiff, into a car which rides too stiff and also handles like it’s missing a bunch of necessary suspension components.
Regulus
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/27/2018 at 00:06 |
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Disconnecting the sway bar will only make the car roll more on turns, but it won’t affect the dampening. If your goal is to make it ride smoother over bumps and cracks in the road, this won’t help.
Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing.
> DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time
05/27/2018 at 00:13 |
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Duct tape or zip ties. Or both.
On the E21 disconnecting the sway bar was not an option as it was what actually located the front suspension. A very neat and simple solution from an engineering standpoint, but the whole front end turned to shit when the bushings were worn. And despite what their websites said, the generic universal sway bar bushings sold by Pep Boys or Advanced Auto Parts were not suitable replacements.
sony1492
> Sovande
05/27/2018 at 00:40 |
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It depends on the car, mid corner bumps and cracks might be better.